Winged eyeliner is one of the hardest things to master in makeup, it’s even harder if you have droopy, down turned or hooded eyes. I’m here to help with this, because through years of wearing makeup and some serious trial and error, I will explain the easiest method that I have found. It’s a combo of three sort of ‘methods’ I’ve found online for winged liner on hooded and downturned eyes.
There is a ton of tutorials and so much information to read through online I thought that a clear concise method with easy steps to follow would be much better and simpler to follow along with. Pictures are definitely helpful so I’ll include a ton! That way you will know what I’m talking about. This is my first like, tutorial thing so I don’t know if I’m doing anything the traditional way.
I’ve just finished my face makeup and am now moving onto my eye makeup.
What you will need:
Any eyeliner tool that you are comfortable working with. Personally I find the pen eyeliners easiest to work with to draw the flick, but gel liner and an angled brush will work great for sketching out the wing.
Makeup remover, and a q tip for touching up the wing afterward since it may not be perfect. In case things seriously go bad it is always a good idea to have a makeup wipe on hand! Some days you will blink, totally screw up and just end up removing the wing and going out without it. Don’t be shy. We have all done that at some point.
Here are all the products I’m working with today.
I’m using an angled brush from it cosmetics for ulta beauty, a physicians formula liner pen in the color ultra black and then a black gel liner from Laura Geller. You can use any gel liner in any color your prefer. I’ve heard exceptional things about the maybelline gel liner which is hella cheap, so that is a great alternative.
1. Line the entire upper lash line, if you have extremely hooded eyes, one example being Blake Lively, where the lid droops over your lash line, then try tight lining so the line appears smooth and connected when you look straight on. If you line the upper lash line and the lid droops over it will accentuate the fact that you have hooded eyes, and make them appear puffy, which is never good. I usually am very precise when lining the inner part of the eye and don’t care as much near the outer corner, because the line will be thicker there and that is where the wing is going to go.
Here is an example of extremely hooded lids, you might want to tight line if your lids are similar. Tight lining gives me like total heebie jeebies though so if you don’t want to then that’s alright too, I understand!
2. Figure out where you want your flick, and draw it. this should not be too steep, but you can try it. The traditional method of going lash line to your eyebrow tail won’t work for hooded eyes, so try instead the trajectory from your nose to the end of your lower lash line and see if it works better. You could also line up the flick with the end of your eyes drooping over:
Draw the flick curved slightly outward from your eye. It doesn’t have to be noticeable but it must be curved lightly outward, kind of like this, on your right eye as an example
You want it to be curved opposite of the way your lid would naturally droop.
3. Look head on into the mirror, then draw back from the tip of the flick to where your eyelid crease begins. Stop when you get there. When you look down or close your eyes, you will see a ‘step’ in your liner. This line is super important, it’s not a mistake, don’t erase it with makeup remover. It shows you where you need to fill in now for your line to appear straight when you look up, not drooped or down turned.
heres what it should look like when you close your eyes
4. Draw straight down to your lash line from this point and fill in the resulting triangular ish shape. I use gel liner for this step since it can transfer easily onto the lid if you use liquid and I want to avoid that.
Fill it in, and it should look something like this.
5. To blend this shape together with the rest of your eyeliner, build up your eyeliner on your upper lash line so you form a smooth and sleek line all in one piece that won’t look droopy at all.once again you’ll want to curve the top edge a little to prevent droopiness.
Here is what it will look like when you open your eyes
Things to remember:
use a liner that you know doesn’t transfer. Liquid liners aren’t always the best I find because they take some time to dry. I find this very inconvenient if you need to look straight on to check your wing at each step before the liner dries, and then you’re left with black all over your lid.
Pencil liner is a no no by itself, you’ll have to go over it with gel for good pigmentation.
If you want a softer look then blend the outer edges with black eyeshadow to make it less harsh.
I find liquid liner doesn’t give me as much control as I would like and if it doesn’t dry quickly then it is a poor tool because of transfer.
It’s okay to use two or even three products to get the liner look you want! I use a liner pen to sketch the initial wing for precision and fill it in with non transferring gel liner.
Use eyeshadow primer before you put on your eyeliner, even if you have no eyeshadow on. This may seem weird, but you still want a smooth canvas to work with on your lid instead of a rough one which will make the liner patchy. The patchiness will cause you to go over the same spot twice with liner, making room for mistakes, which really suck.
Lastly, keep practicing. It won’t work the greatest on the first try, and be okay with that. It’ll take a few tries.
I hope this helped some people! If you don’t have deep set or hooded eyes then the traditional method of using a piece of tape or a card and drawing from your lash line to your eyebrow will definitely work and is much easier.
if you want a review of anything I used in this post then comment down below and like if you enjoyed or found this helpful!